Officially our family has another ADK high peaks hiker, my 9 year-old daughter, Alexis. This hike was originally going to be a guys get-a-away hike but as it turned out a hiking buddy Merritt wanted to bring his 9 year old son on the hike and my daughter really wanted to go as well. Slava, a family friend, also joined us on the hike, to experience the high peaks for the first time.
Last year I challenged our family with a 6 mile round trip hike up St. Regis mountain. After that hike we knew that 6 miles was the limit. Earlier this year, Alexis said, "Dad I really want to do a 10-mile hike this year." So with a strong desire to hike and being the father that I am, I said, "If you want 10 miles then let's go for 11."
For a fall hike in the ADK, we couldn't have asked for better weather. The Vermont High Peaks Forecast had predicted that it was going to be cloudy in the afternoon but we never saw the clouds until we were well on our way home.
We decided to make a day trip instead of spending the night in town but that meant leaving the house at 2:30 am and driving for 4 hours. A few weeks ago we got to the ADK Loj at 6:30 am and at 6:45 am the parking lot was full. So in order to avoid the 4 mile extra hike down the road we left early. We made really good time on the way up and had plenty of parking options at the Loj on American Columbus Day weekend and Canadian Thanksgiving Holiday weekend.
It was a chilly start with temperatures in the high 30's and I had forgotten my gloves so I purchased a pair at the LOJ store which was already open. We signed in at 6:50 am and were on our way. The morning sun was rising quickly and after an hour of hiking we had to get rid of layer, including our hats and gloves. The trail from the Loj to Marcy Dam is relatively flat with minimal rocks, roots, and other obstacles.
The last time that I had been to Marcy Dam was in September 2007. I had only seen photos of the damage that Hurricane Irene (2011) did to the dam, so I was excited to be back and explore the new changes.
Even with all the changes, Marcy Dam is still a gorgeous place to be in the central high peaks any time of the year. We took a break on the rocks that used to be part of the pond and did some walking around.
After several photos and snack we headed for the new bridge that is about 100 yards down stream from the dam. Once on the other side, we took advantage of the outhouses before hitting the trail again.
At this point its been about 1 hour and 40 minutes since we left the Loj. After Marcy Dam, the trail terrain drastically changes to a rock stream bed with planks for high water times.
About 30 minutes later we came to a fork in road with a trail sign that marked the start of the Phelps trail.
Another 30 minutes later we came to a left turn in the trail with a sign confirming that we are still on the blue marker trail.
It was a steady incline in the trail terrain but very gradual and easy walking. The next trail sign 45 minutes later indicated that the trail was making another sharp left turn.
About 2 minutes later we came to the Tabletop trailhead marker. It is the only sign for the trail since it is one of the unmarked trails. From this point it was simply following a herd path. But since we weren't the first people up the trail that day, it was more like following the packed down muddy trail. At times it was a little challenging because of excessive mud and alternative routes were created around huge boggy areas.
The final approach was two fold: the flatter areas were super muddy and slow to cross and the remaining parts were steep but quickly navigable.
From the trailhead to the summit, Alexis and I hiked for 1 hour and 15 minutes. This had to be the most challenging aspect for Alexis because of the mud and steeper terrain. It was psychologically challenging as well but she was victorious. At some of the steep sections, the views were rewarding and when Alexis saw them for the first time she was captivated. It really put into perspective how far we hiked and it was very encouraging.
We made it to the summit at 11:30 am and were rewarded with warm weather, amazing views, and the rest of our hiking party. We stayed at the top for about 40 minutes, giving ourselves plenty of time to rest and recover. Alexis benefited from the longer break the most. Slava had a nice rock lounge with great views of Marcy.
Alexis and I had a great ascent together. This marked my 34th high peak. And it was the first very memorable high peak for Alexis.
We made it back to Marcy Dam around 2:30 pm and then took a nice 30 minute break on the remaining old wooden platform. A ranger assistant was hanging out as well and so we bombarded him with several questions. The 9 year-olds learned a lot about bears and their capabilities.
From that point forward we put away our hiking sticks as the return was relatively flat. Alexis felt good not needing to work out her upper body with the hiking sticks.
We really enjoyed the foliage on the way back more than anything else. It dominated our view and we soaked it up.
We got to the Loj parking at 4:10 pm and it was bustling with activity. There were plenty of hikers hanging out at the little food place and plenty more at their vehicles. Many were returning from their days adventure and some were just starting theirs. The clouds started to roll in pretty quickly and we had a short sprinkle while we changed. Alexis quickly changed and was on her first dream before we rolled out of the parking lot.
I picked up an ADK Mountain patch and the Tabletop patch as little souvenirs and awards for Alexis' great accomplishment.
It has become quite traditional for us to stop by the Noonmark Diner on our way out for a well deserved dinner and dessert. From time to time we stock up on their delicious pies and chocolate chip oatmeal cookies. My favorite combo on the drive back to help me stay awake is their coffee and cookies. It always does the job because the rest of the crew is usually taking cat naps.
TRIP STATS:
0650: start at ADK LOJ
0758: Marcy Dam
0815: left dam
1017: Tabletop trailhead
1130: Tabletop summit
1210: left summit
1430: Marcy dam
1455: Left dam
1610: ADK LOJ parking lot
Total distance: 11 miles
Total time: 9 hrs 40 min
Total ascent: 2,500 ft
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